Ingredients

About this Ingredient List:

This list is for informational purposes only. This list may not contain every ingredient that we utilize just yet, it is a work in progress. The data contained here are taken from actual scientific studies performed under controlled conditions and do not necessarily represent the efficacy of our products. Many of the studies cited are still in the in vitro stages (test tube). We do a significant amount of research before using our ingredients so that we can ensure that you, the customer, will have the best results possible but we cannot guarantee that you will. Every person is an individual with a unique biochemistry and there is no way to determine how you will respond to them. Despite the fact that we use natural essential oils, there is still a possibility of side effects such as allergies and skin irritations resulting from individual sensitivities. Please ensure that you carefully read the ingredients of the products prior to purchasing to ensure that you are not allergic or sensitive to any of its ingredients.

Anandamide

Anandamide acts upon the endocannabinoid system to reduce neuropathic pain and inflammatory skin conditions like ectopic dermatitis and even treat scars. Application can also benefit wound healing, similar to palmitoylethanolamide.

References:

Correia-Sá, I.B., Carvalho, C.M., Serrão, P.V. et al. A new role for anandamide: defective link between the systemic and skin endocannabinoid systems in hypertrophic human wound healing. Sci Rep 10, 11134 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-020-68058-3

Artemisia

Artemisia, or wormwood is a multifunctional plant with amazing properties that have been exploited for their antimicrobial/antiparasitic properties. Thanks to this plant, we have the Artemisinins, some of the most effective anti-malarial medications that have ever existed. These medications are derived from Artemisia annua, or sweet wormwood. This discovery won the Nobel Peace Prize in 2015 because of its worldly significance and positive impact on human life throughout the world. The essential oils from this plant share similar antimicrobial properties and are perfect for many skincare uses. Scientific studies have confirmed this plant’s anti-tumor, hepatoprotective, cytotoxic, neuroprotective and analgesic effects (1). It has many different benefits within the cosmetic industry, as its intrinsic properties make it an ideal choice for certain skin conditions and sensitive skin as a whole. In animal model studies testing its anti-inflammatory and healing properties, significant benefits were noted in the groups that were treated with products containing Wormwood extract. This same study also recruited human volunteers with differing levels of dermatitis. The volunteers each had significant benefits in healing as well as improved hydration values of the stratum corneum (outer skin layer)(2). Occasional allergies have been reported to A. annua due to its pollen. If you are sensitive to pollens, it’s a good idea to perform a patch test before applying a wormwood-containing product to a large surface area of your skin.

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Bergamot

Bergamot has shown significant antimicrobial properties against several bacterial species, both gram positive and negative, as well as some fungal species (1) . It does this by damaging their cell wall, membrane, materials/structures within their cytoplasm and nucleus. It has been proposed as a viable treatment option for antibiotic resistant pathogens as a result of its potent activities (1). It should be noted that some citrus fruit oils exist in a sort of “paradoxical” relationship with sun exposure. Products (non-wash off) containing citrus oils can cause photosensitization, or increased sensitivity to the sun and, as a result, one must protect themselves (see below). In vitro studies performed with constituents of bergamot, ie, the polyphenolic fractions, have shown that these actually improve the viability of skin cells and protect them from UVB radiation-induced photoaging (2). The protective effects of the polyphenol constituents are not, however; able to overcome the other phototoxic components.

Note:

Cold-pressed grapefruit oil is known to be a photosensitizer, as are several other members of the citrus family. Grapefruit can cause photosensitization at certain concentrations (>4%). None of our leave-on products have anywhere near that much grapefruit oil. We believe it is better to be safe than sorry here though, so please be sure to wear SPF (sunscreen) if you are going to be going out in the sun for long periods of time after the application of a leave-on grapefruit containing product, as it can cause an increased risk of sunburn.

References:

Blue Yarrow

Blue Yarrow essential oil is a brilliantly dark blue color. It is one of the only oils that is colored this way. This is caused by a chemical compound called chamazulene that’s produced during the steam distillation process. The chamazulene is not present in the original plant and is only a product of the heat and pressure. The color ranges from a dark indigo to a cerulean blue depending on the supplier and other factors. It soothes the skin and helps to restore the skin’s moisture barrier and regulate pH following insult or injury (1). Blue yarrow has also been evaluated for use in atopic dermatitis and showed promising results and anti-inflammatory benefits (2). In another in vitro study, it stimulated the production and proliferation of human fibroblasts, owing to its ability to help along the healing process (3).

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Blue Lotus

Blue lotus is a striking bluish purple flower that is a type of water lily. It is packed with polyphenols (antioxidants) that help prevent aging and act as anti-inflammatory agents. It can help stimulate the production of collagen, soothe and balance the production of oil. In addition to this, it has been shown through scientific research to inhibit the action of the tyrosinase enzyme (1). The tyrosinase inhibition action is present in the flower, leaves and seeds (2). By inhibiting this enzyme it prevents the production of melanin which can be helpful in skin pigmentation disorders.

References:

Calendula

Calendula, or marigold, is an all-around great skincare ingredient. It is extremely gentle and is even used often in baby products. In experiments by which the mechanical parameters of the skin were evaluated, it was determined that calendula extract improved these measured parameters (tightness, hydration, viscoelasticiy) after 8 weeks of topical treatment (1). It also can increase angiogenesis, collagen metabolism and act as an emollient when applied to wounds. It has been found in studies to activate and promote the cells responsible for adequate tissue healing and rapid proliferation (2). Through scientific investigation, it was determined that, at least some, of its anti-inflammatory mechanisms are due to its ability to inhibit nitric oxide at the level of application (3). Calendula-containing creams have been studied in clinical trials and have been effective (vs. controls) in some randomized, double-blinded studies in the treatment of radiodermatitis caused by radiation therapy (4). Other studies did not find significant benefits when compared to control subjects.

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Carnation

Carnation contains multiple antioxidants that are beneficial for our skin and our bodies. They come in a variety of beautiful colors and the petals of the flowers are edible. Many of their compounds have been found to have anti-cancer properties in vitro (1). When applied topically, it can help reduce inflammation, swelling, brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. There have been a few published case study reports of occupational allergies in workers who are exposed to carnations frequently. Most had respiratory symptoms and/or asthma like presentations. If you are a sensitive individual and have a known allergy to carnations, please read the ingredients lists carefully and avoid such products. As always, if you are unsure, it is best to perform a patch test prior to using any new product on a large surface area of your body or face.

References:

Zhou X, Wang M, Li H, Ye S, Tang W. Widely targeted metabolomics reveals the antioxidant and anticancer activities of different colors of Dianthus caryophyllus. Front Nutr. 2023 May 19;10:1166375. doi: 10.3389/fnut.2023.1166375.

Chamomile

Chamomile is an all-around soother that is commonly used in baby products due to its gentle nature. It contains a calming compound called apigenin, and as a result, is consumed as a tea, often for the purpose of relaxation. This compound interacts with our benzodiazepine binding site on GABA type A receptors, but with a gentle, natural effect (1). When activated, the GABA receptors in our brain are inhibitory, creating a calming effect on the neuron leading to overall relaxation. Just as chamomile calms our mind, it also has a similar impact on our skin. Chamomile is used for many different skin issues including: itching, dry skin, rashes, hyperpigmentation, eczema, psoriasis, brightening, burns/sunburn, wounds and more. Chamomile has been used for multiple purposes and skin disorders for cancer-related problems ranging from oral rinses to topical antifungal treatments. The following study compiled an overview of these uses as well as the results (2). Many affectionately refer to chamomile as “nature’s bleach”. It is often found in blonde-toning or lightening hair products. The apigenin can attach to the hair and create a nice golden color. Another constituent, alpha bisabolol, has been proven to be effective against hyperpigmentation at concentrations as low as 0.1% (3).

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Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum has been shown to protect skin from UV-B induced radiation and subsequent photoaging. They do this via the reduction of free radicals and preventing the activation of enzymes that promote inflammation (1). In a dual in vitro/in vivo study, chrysanthemum oil preparations were compared to hydrocortisone in atopic dermatitis models. Chrysanthemum worked just as well as hydrocortisone but showed no side effects. It reduced inflammatory markers, clinical symptoms/signs and inflammatory cells (2). Additionally, it has also been found to increase the proliferation of human keratinocytes in vitro (3). This same study evaluated its effect on wound closure in animal models in order to further assess its effects on healing. It was found to positively impact wound closure in the animals who had chrysanthemum oil applied to the affected area. These multifaceted benefits of chrysanthemum make it a great addition to any personal care or beauty product, as it has general anti-aging benefits and smells fantastic.

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Clary Sage

Clary sage has a cooling effect on the skin and acts as an emollient. It regulates oil production (sebum) and can stimulate circulation. Its antioxidants help to reduce free radicals, making this a great essential oil for any skin type, as it can benefit anyone. It has been shown to have good general antibacterial properties against multiple bacterial species (1). These effects are compounded when combined with other essential oils (2).

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Clove

Clove has specialized skin benefits that include: antifungal effects, anti-acne, antibacterial, it even conditions the hair and prevents loss and damage. In a recent study, clove oil was found to regulate the Na+ K+ ATPase pump activity on the skin cells of mice (1). By stabilizing these pumps, it keeps free radicals from entering skin cells, thereby acting as an antioxidant. Clove oil also reduces oxidative stress caused by UVB radiation as well as pro-inflammatory cytokines (messengers). In a recent study, it simultaneously activated anti-inflammatory cytokines (2). Similar to other oils, clove can act as a permeation enhancing agent, ie, it helps other active ingredients soak into the skin better. A study performed using clove and eucalyptus oils found that this combination significantly improved the absorption and delivery of fluorouracil, a chemotherapy agent, in vitro (3). A clinical study performed in patients with secondary pruritus, clove oil was applied to affected areas of their skin. There was a significant difference between the treatment group over the control group, the clove group scored less on the itching scale (4). Clove can also provide local analgesic effects when applied to painful areas which can also be beneficial for itchy, inflamed skin or even mouth sores. Its wide ranging antibacterial properties are often exploited for use in products like mouthwashes, toothpastes and topical antifungal treatments.

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Comfrey

Comfrey root contains phenolic acids, pyrrolizidine alkaloids as well as their derivatives, the lignans. Pyrrolizidines are considered to be toxic to the liver when taken orally and as such, were banned in oral products many years ago by the FDA. Fascinatingly, when comfrey is applied to the skin, our microbiota, the natural bacterial flora that exist to protect us, break down the pyrrolizidines into smaller compounds that are no longer a threat to us and are actually beneficial for treating skin disorders (1). Modern clinical studies have proven that comfrey is effective for treating pain associated with minor injuries, osteoarthritis, sprains, bruises and other painful conditions (2). In a topical safety study in kids, comfrey preparations were applied to both intact and broken skin. There was only one incidence of a minor irritation in the broken skin group but they were unable to determine if it was due to the comfrey itself or one of the excipient ingredients (3). Overall, topical administration of comfrey has been used safely and successfully for many years for a multitude of skin conditions and pain-related issues and is well-renowned for its benefits.

References:

Curcumin

Curcumin is one of the most well known active components in turmeric. It has been scientifically recognized as a tyrosinase inhibitor. This enzyme is required in order for our skin to make melanin, the pigment that causes dark spots to form. Curcumin blocks this enzyme and therefore can prevent melanogenesis in the skin (1). In preclinical studies, formulations containing curcumin were found to be more effective than controls at reducing the appearance of sunlight-induced dark spots (2). Curcumin is used as an oral supplement for many different conditions and is touted for its widespread benefits for a variety of conditions, both skin and systemic.

References:

Daffodil

Daffodil contains multiple antioxidants that are known to fight hyperpigmentation due to excess UV radiation as well as environmental toxins. They can help reduce melanin production in the skin cells in response to said stressors. Their active compounds act as tyrosinase inhibitors. This may sound familiar at this point, as we have mentioned this with other plants within this list. The tyrosinase pathway is an important step in the production of melanin (pigmentation) of the skin. By blocking this enzyme daffodil can help prevent excess melanin production and is often found in products for hyperpigmentation or dark spots. In vitro studies have also indicated that extracts of narcissus, or daffodil, have improved the rate of cellular healing (1).

References:

Rameshk M, Sharififar F, Mehrabani M, Pardakhty A, Farsinejad A, Mehrabani M. Proliferation and In Vitro Wound Healing Effects of the Microniosomes Containing Narcissus tazetta L. Bulb Extract on Primary Human Fibroblasts (HDFs). Daru. 2018 Sep 12;26(1):31–42. doi: 10.1007/s40199-018-0211-7.

Daisy

Daisies naturally contain a compound called L-arbutin which is just as effective as hydroquinone at brightening skin and reducing hyperpigmentation with less unpleasant side effects. In fact many skin brightening/lightening products add in a form of arbutin as an active ingredient in skin care formulations. One scientific study compared a plant-based formulation containing daisy, licorice and emblica to another with hydroquinone and found no significant difference in the results of either group; they both worked equally well, however; the hydroquinone group had more side effects (1). It is believed that the reduced side effect profile of arbutin is due to its delayed release capability. It is known as a tyrosinase inhibitor, which we have mentioned in this list previously for other plants. It ultimately works by blocking excess melanin production following sun exposure, thereby reducing sun spots/dark spots and bringing out the glow! It is often found in melasma products for this very reason.

References:

Costa A, Moisés TA, Cordero T, Alves CR, Marmirori J. Association of emblica, licorice and belides as an alternative to hydroquinone in the clinical treatment of melasma. An Bras Dermatol. 2010 Sep-Oct;85(5):613-20. doi: 10.1590/s0365-05962010000500003.

Eucalyptus:

Eucalyptus oil has shown to have moisturizing benefits to our skin, it is helpful for wound healing, maintaining the skin’s barrier, acting as an anti-inflammatory, a topical anesthetic and it has some anti-aging properties (1). In a study combining eucalyptus oil with pseudo-ceramides, it was found to improve the skin barrier function both in vitro and in vivo for atopic dermatitis (2). Another extremely interesting characteristic of eucalyptus oil is that it can serve as a penetration enhancer for other substances, including actives, medications and antimicrobial products. It has been found to enhance the absorption of chlorhexidine, a type of surgical scrub, thereby improving its mechanism of skin cleansing (3). This effect is boosted even more when rubbing alcohol is added. It has a similar effect with an antifungal called ketoconazole (4) as well as 5-flourouracil (5), a chemotherapy medication. Theoretically, these enhancing benefits could also apply to skincare active ingredients as well because it is capable of boosting the absorption of both hydrophilic and hydrophobic ingredients.

References:

Frankincense

Frankincense has shown anti-photoaging benefits in animal models when exposed to UV-B radiation by inhibiting cell signaling pathways that promote inflammation and eventually lead to aging (1). Frankincense also promotes tissue healing and modulates inflammatory messengers leading to a faster more efficient process (2). In doing research regarding frankincense, I came across a fascinating study that evaluated its topical application for the treatment of frostbite. They used frankincense oil and three of its active components as the test article in the study and it was accomplished using an animal model of frostbite. They found that it rapidly re-warmed the affected tissue, improved wound healing, restored the structure of the skin, reduced apoptotic (cell death) activity, acted as an anti-inflammatory and increased microcirculation (3). The increase in blood flow that was observed was consistent with previous published studies on frankincense oil. These amazing results, along with the previous and current knowledge regarding frankincense, make it a perfect match for both aging skin and many other skin concerns.

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Grapefruit

Grapefruit is high in Vitamin C which nourishes our skin and helps us build collagen, this, in turn, helps improve the appearance of the skin, reduces inflammation and dark spots. It also contains alpha hydroxy acids which help remove dead surface cells and reveal the healthy ones underneath. Due to medication interactions, many are unable to eat grapefruit because it intercepts the CP450 pathway in the liver’s metabolism, a common pathway involved in the processing of many current drugs on the market. Although significant topical absorption of the furanocoumarins, the constituent of grapefruit that causes this interaction (1), is highly unlikely in a wash-off product (or an essential oil-based product), it’s always best to check with your doctor if you ever have concerns regarding any essential oil based product.

Note:

Cold-pressed grapefruit oil is known to be a photosensitizer, as are several other members of the citrus family. Grapefruit can cause photosensitization at certain concentrations (>4%). None of our leave-on products have anywhere near that much grapefruit oil. We believe it is better to be safe than sorry here though, so please check your ingredients and be sure to wear SPF (sunscreen) if you are going to be going out in the sun for long periods of time after the application of a leave-on grapefruit containing product, as it can cause an increased risk of sunburn.

References:

Bailey, D.S., et al. 2013. Grapefruit–medication interactions: Forbidden fruit or avoidable consequences? CMAJ 2013. DOI:10.1503 /cmaj.120951

Jasmine

Jasmine is a multi-functional beneficial flower that does more than just smell great. It contains lignans, triterpenes and other compounds that are great for our skin. In one in vitro study, cells placed under stressful conditions were protected from reactive oxygen species when treated with jasmine extract due to its antioxidant properties (1). This same study also determined that these cells also produced less advanced glycation end products (AGE’s), which are associated with the aging process of the skin, and also increased collagen production. Its mechanism was trifold: free radical scavenger, metal chelator and cell signal activator. Jasmine has also been utilized in trials with burn injuries and has shown significant benefits, in that, healing was improved and occurred at a more rapid rate when compared to controls (2). Another important study involving jasmine utilized skin cell cultures and examined the impact of a fermented jasmine extract’s effects on both an irritant and UVB radiation. They observed several measurable effects in the treated cells. First off, in the untreated cells, the collagen began to break down, and the cells became less viable, with several markers of aging, or senescence, observed. The jasmine treated batch were viable, with activated collagen signals “turned on” along with their antioxidant genes. The fermented jasmine appeared to neutralize the damaging effects of both stressors (3).

References:

Kalawalla

Kalawalla is sometimes affectionately referred to as “nature’s sunblock”. It is a fern that grows wild in tropical areas such as South America and it has been used in traditional medicine for skin concerns for many years. The science is finally beginning to catch up to what the native populations have known for years in regards to this plant. A study published in 2014 found that its UV skin protective effect is a multifaceted mechanism that is accomplished through multiple molecular pathways (1). Similar skin protective responses have been shown through oral administration of kalawalla as a supplement in controlled trials (2). Another study in healthy volunteers reinforced both the topical and oral routes of administration of kalawalla. This study found that several parameters and/or measurements of skin damage due to UV radiation exposure were affected, in a positive manner, in response to kalawalla administration (3).

References:

Kiwi

Kiwi is a great exfoliator when applied to the skin. It contains high levels of vitamin C which helps to brighten and tone the skin and reduce hyperpigmentation. Its antioxidants nourish and protect the skin while providing further protection against conditions such as acne and other skin conditions. It provides a cooling effect, soothing the skin, while supporting the skin’s moisture barrier. In an in vitro study, kiwi extracts were found to promote the proliferation of human keratinocytes by 30% and boost mitochondrial activity by 25%. Lesser effects were noted in fibroblasts, still significant compared to controls, but not as pronounced as in the keratinocytes (1).

References:

Deters, A. et al. Kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis L.) polysaccharides exert stimulating effects on cell proliferation via enhanced growth factor receptors, energy production, and collagen synthesis of human keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and skin equivalents. Journal of Cellular Physiology. Vol. 202, Issue 3, March 2005

Lavender

Lavender oil is both soothing and powerful. It has the amazing ability to heal and calm the skin while acne-causing bacteria and other germs. In a wound healing study, a nano-emulsion containing lavender and licorice was applied to wounds and it facilitated significant healing when compared to the typical stages of healing (1). Another wound healing study utilizing a rat model found that the application of lavender oil promoted the expression of type I and III collagen and caused an increase in the total number of fibroblasts (cells that make collagen). The levels of type III collagen went down to the same level as the control animals by day 7 but type I remained higher. They proposed that the lavender oil caused type III to be replaced by type I. Type I collagen is important for skin regeneration, while type III forms a delicate matrix during early healing stages. Lavender also increased a cytokine (messenger) that is responsible for activating and promoting tissue healing (2). Lavender has well documented skin benefits and is often used in baby products due to its gentle nature and overall calming effects (skin and systemic). Meta-analyses have also shown that lavender has resulted in quicker wound healing, collagen synthesis and boosts tissue remodeling during the overall healing process (2).

References:

Lemon

Lemon oil has been found to be a penetration enhancer for skincare actives and vitamins such as: vitamin A (retinol), B6, C and more (1). This means that when it is applied to the skin along with these other vitamins, it helps them to absorb into the skin better, into the deeper layers, more so than if they were applied alone. It contains several active compounds including limonene and citral, which have shown broad-spectrum activities against a wide variety of microorganisms in laboratory conditions. Many of these bacterial species are responsible for the formation of acne and other skin conditions. It also can help reduce/balance the production of sebum through its astringent properties as well as prevent the blockage of pores (2).

Note:

Cold-pressed lemon oil is known to be a photosensitizer, as are several other members of the citrus family. Lemon can cause photosensitization at certain concentrations (>2%). None of our leave-on products have anywhere near that much lemon oil. We believe it is better to be safe than sorry here though, so please check your ingredients and be sure to wear SPF (sunscreen) if you are going to be going out in the sun for long periods of time after the application of a leave-on lemon containing product, as it can cause an increased risk of sunburn.

References:

Lemon Balm

Lemon balm, or Melissa officinalis, has been shown to have natural antiviral and antibacterial effects. It can also act as a good circulation booster when applied to the skin. It has a soothing effect and has been shown, in scientific studies, to reduce free radicals within skin cells (1). Similar to rosemary oil, it contains rosmarinic acid but in higher concentrations. This acid helps boost and stimulate collagen production in skin cells (2), leading to both better looking skin and faster healing. It has also shown to be quite protective when skin is exposed to damaging UVB radiation. Interestingly, the whole lemon balm extract is more effective at protection than some of its concentrated constituents, ie, rosmarinic acid (3). Lemon balm is especially useful for healing balms and other topical treatments for general skin wellness.

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Lily

Lily is also an emollient and helps keep skin plump and hydrated. It is rich in flavonoids, phenolic acids and polysaccharides. The phenolics, as a whole, are frequently sought after for cosmetic use because of their potent antioxidant, bacteriostatic, antiaging, and skin-repair functions. Due to the chemical structure of phenols, they can absorb anywhere between 200-400 nm light waves, and, as such, are often used for UV blocking purposes (1) . Members of the Lilium family help to nourish and benefit all skin types. The flowers are used frequently in Asian countries in both skincare products and many varieties are sold as a floral tea. Because of their high concentration of beneficial constituents their uses in skincare are versatile, as they are both edible and gentle.

References:

Tang, Y.; Liu, Y.; Luo, K.; Xu, L.; Yang, P.; Ming, J. Potential Applications of Lilium Plants in Cosmetics: A Comprehensive Review Based on Research Papers and Patents. Antioxidants 2022, 11, 1458. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11081458

Neroli

Neroli is a great antioxidant, works as an emollient, has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It has a wonderful floral scent, as the oil is produced from the blossom’s of the orange tree. In vitro studies have found that it can be quite effective against multiple types of microorganisms that cause acne formation. Its antimicrobial activities included fungal species as well as pseudomonas (1). It has also been found to have anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in vivo. In rodent models of pain and inflammation, when neroli was used as a test material and compared to controls, they found significantly less markers of inflammation and less central sensitization and pain responses. It exhibited almost an analgesic effect similar to that of diclofenac, a commonly used NSAID medication (2). Animals don’t fib, lie or sensationalize, so if a mouse tells you it is so, then it is so.

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Orchid

Orchid oil is extremely hydrating and rejuvenating to our skin. It helps prevent the signs of aging, which is not surprising, given the fact that they are one of the longest living flower varieties in the world. Some varieties can live up to 100 years! Studies have elucidated their antioxidant capacities and have found that their components can improve our cell viability. They help prevent collagen breakdown, and counteract free radicals (1). All of its properties make it a great choice for any skincare product, specifically, anti-aging products. Their exotic beauty and fragrance are just side benefits.

References:

Bazzicalupo M, Burlando B, Denaro M, Barreca D, Trombetta D, Smeriglio A, Cornara L. Polyphenol Characterization and Skin-Preserving Properties of Hydroalcoholic Flower Extract from Himantoglossum robertianum (Orchidaceae). Plants (Basel). 2019 Nov 14;8(11):502. doi: 10.3390/plants8110502.

Peppermint

Peppermint consists of a wide range of constituents that have multiple functions and benefits. Its pharmacological activities indicate that it protects multiple systems within our bodies both when taken orally and when applied topically. A growing body of evidence shows its various effects on reducing inflammation, bactericidal/bacteriostatic effects, antiviral, immunomodulatory, antitumor, neuroprotective, anti-fatigue and antioxidant activities (1). In vitro experiments with HIV-1 show reduced infectivity and suppressed entry of the virions into cells in the presence of peppermint oil. It has shown similar effects against other human viruses including RSV and HSV. It has been found to inhibit the growth and proliferation of colon cancer cell lines by causing cell cycle arrest, especially when combined with sage oil (1). Another of its amazing benefits include radiation protection. In laboratory evaluations, pre-treatment with peppermint protected from breaks in chromatids and several other morphological changes in cells in response to radiation (2). These radiation protection benefits seem to carry over into systemic (whole body) models as well. In animals treated with peppermint oil and concomitant radiation doses, their levels of certain enzymes, indicative of radiation distress, were reduced when compared to untreated controls, signifying a protective mechanism (3). In vitro studies have determined that by itself, it has an SPF value of about 7 (4). It makes a perfect active scent for any bar soap or skincare product, as it is both refreshing and hard-working. It interacts with “cold” receptors on our skin, giving that classic cooling effect that we are all familiar with in products like vapor baths and vapor rubs for colds or classic “medicated” lip balms. Most of us don’t realize all of the other positive interactions it is having with our bodies while doing so.

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Plumeria

Plumeria, or Frangipani, has a beautiful, floral fragrance while providing additional anti-inflammatory benefits to any formulation. Plumeria extracts have also been proven to protect against UV radiation/act as UV filters in animal studies when applied topically (1). The highest SPF value measured was 33.8, although this was from a pure extract (1400mg/mL), which protected against UV-induced erythema and other changes. Similar studies have confirmed these findings using in vitro methods (2). In addition to its UV protection activities, Plumeria has also been shown to be effective against several species of microorganisms. Some of these include: Escherichia coli, Proteus vulgaris, Staphylococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Enterococcus faecalis. Its most notable activities were against E. coli, providing results similar to the positive control antibiotic (streptomycin)(3).

References:

Rose

Rose and its many constituents have been used since Ancient Egypt for beauty and skincare, and for good reason. It has been found to have positive effects on hyperpigmentation, aging, collagen production and more. There are many clinical studies proving its efficacy, and many of its mechanisms have been elucidated through scientific research. It works via the regulation and/or modification of cell signaling through several different pathways (1). It can turn cellular switches on/off. It can also modify and reduce the activation of olfactory (scent) cells located on our skin that are affected by stress. These receptors, when activated, can cause stress-related skin changes. Rose extract helps to deactivate these, leading to better looking skin, ie, less dark circles and more (2). Interestingly, a study performed in both rats and people showed that the simple scent of rose oil is enough to guard the skin barrier from stress-related changes. It is thought that this inhibitory action is through rose’s ability to interrupt the HPA axis, the biological process that occurs in our bodies during long-term or repeated stress (3).

References:

Rose Geranium

Rose geranium has regenerative and brightening properties when applied to the skin. It can help slow the signs of aging, cleanse and reduce bacteria on the skin. It has also been found to be a seboregulator in scientific studies, in that it can help reduce oil production once applied to the skin. This effect can be long lasting after the original application and is more pronounced when paired with niacinamide (1).

References:

Kozlowska, J.; Kaczmarkiewicz, A.; Stachowiak, N.; Sionkowska, A. Evaluation of Sebostatic Activity of Juniperus communis Fruit Oil and Pelargonium graveolens Oil Compared to Niacinamide. Cosmetics 2017, 4, 36. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4030036

Rosemary

Rosemary provides both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits while treating pathological skin conditions. It has wound healing, anti-cancer and antifungal properties (1). It contains several compounds with promising activities within beauty and medicine: carnosol and carnosic, rosmarinic, ursolic, oleanolic, and micromeric acids. Its anti-inflammatory benefits have been proven through numerous studies in both humans and animals alike. In several in vitro studies, it had a net positive effect against melanoma cells, preventing proliferation and, in others, prevented the development of cancer altogether (3). Rosemary oil can also benefit wound healing. Diabetics, especially, may struggle with wound-healing. Hyperglycemia, ie, high blood sugar fluctuations can impact a variety of factors involved in the healing process. This can lead to inflammatory stress, atherosclerosis, venous blood flow problems, immunodeficiency and more. In an animal model of diabetes, rosemary (both oil and aqueous extract) were compared to controls in a wound healing trial. The animals treated with the oil form had the best results. They showed decreased inflammation and better collagen production, regeneration of blood vessels/circulation, epithelialization/contraction of the wound (4). It is also used for a wide-range of cosmetic purposes including: cellulite, alopecia, aging and UV protection. There is a plethora of references citing rosemary as being effective for hair support/growth. Some comparative studies show that rosemary works just as well as minoxidil, others use a combination of the two and note that, when combined, they get the best results. Rosemary is truly a multi-purpose and hardworking herb.

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Saffron

Saffron has also shown significant tyrosinase activity in in vitro studies thanks to crocin and crocetin, two active components within. It also has the ability to inhibit hyaluronidase and xanthine oxidase during cellular stress (1). These activities help prevent cellular inflammation and breakdown in response to environmental stressors. Its plentiful actives have been studied for cancer prevention in controlled trials. In mouse studies of artificially induced cancer, animals treated with, either topically or orally administered croton oil (a constituent of saffron), markers of inflammation and other cancer-related fingerprints were significantly reduced. This study evaluated carcinogenesis of the skin and they were able to prevent the formation of papillomas as well as reduce their size via the administration of the saffron extract. When administered early enough, they were able to halt the process altogether (2). Saffron is mostly utilized in products formulated for hyperpigmentation but its widespread benefits are much more diverse than simply its tyrosinase activities.

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Sandalwood

Sandalwood can help to soothe the skin and has been found to be beneficial for multiple skin issues in scientific studies, including: acne, psoriasis, eczema, warts, dermatitis and more (1). In one in vitro study, skin cells were treated with a known irritant and when sandalwood was applied topically, it prevented chemokine and cytokine (chemical messenger) release and also showed activity suggesting it functioned as a COX inhibitor (2), meaning it had a direct and positive impact on the inflammatory process, thereby reducing it. The COX pathway is the same mechanism by which medications such as advil and naproxen work to reduce pain and inflammation. It can also inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme required for the formation of melanin. Through the blockade of this enzyme, it has been found, in clinical trials, to reduce and treat dark spots (3).

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Sweet Orange

Sweet Orange has well known antimicrobial properties. A study in 2012, tested the antimicrobial effects of Valencia orange essential oil on MRSA in vitro and found it to be effective at a 0.2% solution (1). It has a very pleasant, uplifting scent and it’s one of the members of the citrus family that does not promote phototoxicity reactions. Certain orange species do cause problems, primarily bitter orange and mandarin leaf (petitgrain), again at certain concentrations, 1.25% and 0.17% respectively. Thus Far, we only use sweet orange oil. However, there are some other concerns regarding sweet orange oil. Pregnant women should avoid using products containing sweet orange oil during their first trimester. This is because essential oils are powerful and concentrated. It is believed that some of these plant-based compounds can have the potential to cause uterine contractions during that critical time in development. Being a mom of 2 myself, I was always cautious when taking anything during pregnancy, to me it was always better to be safe than sorry.

References:

Muthaiyan A, Biswas D, Crandall PG, Wilkinson BJ, Ricke SC. Application of orange essential oil as an antistaphylococcal agent in a dressing model. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2012 Aug 16;12:125. doi: 10.1186/1472-6882-12-125.

Tea Tree

Tea tree is a good anti-inflammatory and has antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties. It is purported to accelerate wound healing, improve acne, dermatitis, gingivitis and other skin conditions as well as the prevention of certain skin cancers (1). A recent study was performed using histamine injections into the skin of healthy volunteers and tea tree oil was applied to the area post injection. Histamine is the chemical produced by our bodies that causes the unpleasant symptoms of an allergic reaction (redness, itching, hives etc). The group that had tea tree oil applied to the affected area had less histamine-induced inflammation (2). Much has been studied regarding the antimicrobial properties of tea tree oil. There are numerous scientific studies documenting its efficacy vs. a variety of microorganisms. It has been shown to especially inhibit S. aureus, P. acnes in a dose-dependent manner. Its antimicrobial properties are better suited for anaerobic bacteria (3). Skin irritations and hypersensitivity reactions to tea tree happen (up to 3%) and are believed to be related to one of the following constituents: ascaridole, terpinolene, α-terpinene, 1,2,4-trihydroxymenthane, α-phellandrene, and limonene. If you tend to be a hypersensitive individual, it might be a good idea to perform a patch test before applying tea tree oil to a large area for the first time.

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Turmeric

Turmeric has successfully been used to treat many skin concerns. In a systematic review of the effectiveness of turmeric, 10 clinical studies were reviewed and all of them showed significant benefits for a variety of conditions, including vitiligo, acne, alopecia, dermatitis, aging, oral lichen planus, pruritus, psoriasis, hyperpigmentation and more, when compared to the control groups (1). In another clinical study, it was found that a turmeric cream decreased sebum by 24% during the testing period (2). The active ingredient in turmeric, curcumin, has poor solubility in water, poor dermal absorption and is easily broken down once it gets into the body. Because of these challenges, scientists are proposing ways to improve skin delivery of this hard-working active. One such study recommends placing curcumin in nanoparticles prior to skin administration (3). This method is used in regular drug delivery and is meant to give a targeted delivery of a substance. Many formulators already use some of these scientific (nano) concepts when making their products, ie, microemulsions, liposomal products. Curcumin acts as an anti-inflammatory via the interruption of several signaling pathways and its skin actions could be enhanced with modern delivery systems. Another systematic review found that it helped with numerous skin conditions including: erythema, pruritus, discomfort of psoriasis lesions and improved skin lesions associated with radiation therapy. They also noted that it helped decrease the growth of armpit hair, increased moisturization and improved the production of hyaluronan (matrix material surrounding cells) (4). In addition to its other benefits, turmeric (curcumin) is a natural and potent tyrosinase inhibitor (5). Tyrosinase enzyme activation is required in order for our skin cells to make melanin. Because curcumin has the ability to block this key step in the process, it prevents melanogenesis (as long as it can effectively get into our skin cells). This can be very beneficial for hyperpigmentation and other skin pigment disorders. There are many scientific studies documenting its use for these purposes (6)(7).

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Vetiver

Vetiver is purported to help fight acne and act as a general antimicrobial agent. It has been shown in certain formulations to completely inhibit the growth of acne-forming bacteria within 24 hours (1) and remained stable for many months, even in emulsions. In vitro studies utilizing skin cells have found that not only does vetiver increase sebum, but it also increases our skin’s natural lipid defenses, from both keratinocytes and sebocytes. It caused the synthesis of sphingomyelin, phosphoglycerides, polar ceramides and cerebrosides. These lipid molecules, as a whole, contribute to promoting a healthy and intact skin barrier and help maintain its integrity and general health (2).

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Ylang ylang

Ylang ylang is often used for skin conditions such as psoriasis, dandruff and other skin conditions. In vitro studies have observed both antibacterial, antifungal and antioxidant properties (1). It has been shown in scientific studies to have good antioxidant properties, less so than vitamin C, but good nonetheless. Scientists have also evaluated its antibacterial properties vs a few different strains associated with dandruff. It was found that Ylang ylang’s inhibition abilities surpassed the control antibiotic (ciprofloxacin) at concentrations of 30 and 50 micrograms/mL of oil and nanoemulgel respectively. This same study used this Ylang ylang emulgel to assess its ability to control dandruff in an animal model. It was an effective delivery system and reduced both the measurable and observable clinical signs associated with dandruff (2). In rare circumstances, Ylang ylang has been known to cause allergic skin reactions due to the presence of a compound known as isoeugenol . There are case studies documented in the scientific literature, (3) and symptoms appear to be consistent with other contact dermatitis reactions like redness, itching, swelling, blisters/hives and/or dry skin. If you know you are allergic to this compound, avoid this ingredient. If you’re a sensitive individual and are not sure, always do a patch test before applying to a large area.

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Wintergreen

Wintergreen emparts a “minty” scent to topical products and gives them a medicated feel. It soothes dry, irritated skin and provides emollient benefits. It is also used to prevent hair loss when applied to the scalp and is a great odor-eliminator. It has classically been used as a topical pain reliever for conditions such as back pain or arthritis. Wintergreen contains salicylates (methyl salicylate) which are similar in function to medications like aspirin (1). One teaspoon of methyl salicylate is the strength of approximately 90 baby aspirin tablets so it is significantly stronger. Because it is so concentrated, the essential oil form should never be taken orally, as it can cause salicylate poisoning. It is, however, often used in dental/oral rinses that are meant for cleansing purposes, these products should never be swallowed. It can be safely applied to the skin. In fact, it has multiple benefits when used for skin-related concerns. The current literature has found that it possesses anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, photoprotective, insecticidal and antiparasitic properties (when applied topically)(2). When using wintergreen in essential oil form, it must always be properly diluted via a carrier oil and one must not exceed a usage rate of 2.4%.

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